Dombaegi: Heritige reimagined

On the ceremonial tables of Ulsan, there was always one distinctive presence: shark meat, known locally as Dombaegi.

Traces of shark appear as far back as the prehistoric Bangudae Petroglyphs, and even shark bones have been unearthed in tombs from the Three Kingdoms period. For centuries, shark has been deeply embedded in our culinary heritage. In the Gyeongsang province, there was even a saying that a rite could not be performed without Dombaegi. The sight of boiled shark cut into generous pieces, dipped in spicy cho-gochujang (vinegared chili paste), and enjoyed with ritual drinks was once a familiar part of ancestral ceremonies. Yet as traditions simplified over time, this food gradually disappeared from everyday life.

At Joo052, our decision to revive Dombaegi is not about simple reproduction of tradition. What we aim to do is reinterpret memory in the language of today. By drawing from the cultural significance of shark in Ulsan’s ceremonial rituals and reimagining it through a modern culinary lens, we hope to offer our guests a bridge between past and present.

The shark we use is known as Kkachi Shark, a term referring to several species—blue shark, mako shark, and porbeagle—caught off the coast of Wando. As a protected species, they cannot be purposefully fished; only those that surface incidentally are used. Each is carefully semi-dried, then grilled over oak charcoal to highlight its naturally delicate and mild flavor. The dish is then paired with a sauce of chili paste and spices, and accompanied by pickled gungchae greens wrapped in seaweed and kelp—creating a harmony that feels both traditional and contemporary.

For our ancestors, Dombaegi was never just a ceremonial food. It was nourishment gifted from the sea, a dish that sustained memory, family, and community. At Joo052, we honor this meaning by going beyond replication. With thought and craft, we reinterpret Dombaegi in a way that brings new life to a fading tradition, while also expressing our vision for Korean cuisine in the modern age.

Our Dombaegi stands at the crossroads of tradition and innovation, memory and creation. To encounter this dish on today’s table is more than to taste—it is to reconnect with a story once forgotten. With sincerity and care, we offer this dish so that our guests may rediscover the depth of the past, reimagined through the flavors of the present.